Sunday

Today was a slow, long, cold day. The morning was spent simply reading, messing around on the computer, and just chilling (literally). Then, this afternoon a small group of us went to the National Museum. The top floor had a special exhibit on the Shining Path guerilla group/movement and the violence that took place primarily from 1980 to 2000 (although there was a recent occurrence in April of this year). The exhibit was truly touching. We spent almost an hour walking through each room that documented the chronology of the turbulence. Again, it's just so sad because most of the violence has ironically been targeted upon the peasants and indigenous people - the irony being this is a so-called socialist organization who wants the proletariat to rise. However, just when you think the Shining Path is the "bad guys," there is documentation of the military and government-sponsored "rondos" inflicting just as much violence and genocide. It was a very ugly time, and the varying causes of the violence just seem to be compounded by various social, political, and ethnic factors that are far beyond my comprehension. I had been warned that those of us who work in Villa El Salvador should not mention the Shining Path, and the exhibit today discussed how the lieutenant-governor of that district was assassinated by the guerillas in 1992. I suspect it is still a very troubling memory that the residents prefer to move past.

The museum also houses artwork from paintings to ceramics to metal work from the varying indigenous tribes throughout Peru. We got so excited, however, to go out into the courtyard and find a market of indigenous crafts. Each stall was housed by a native of the tribe, many of them in ethnic costume. I bought pottery from the Amazon and a nativity scene from the Highlands. I loved just walking and watching the people actually performing their craft. Women were knitting, men were sewing bands onto hats, children were making belts and jewelry. It was a great thing to see and experience. You could also hear the different dialects of the people as they spoke to each other, but also some of them couldn't understand Spanish in that they primarily speak Quechuan (of course, it was my Spanish so that could be a factor). The market itself looked temporary, so I'm not sure if it was set up specifically for the independence week or if it is frequent. Either way, it was something not soon to be forgotten.

I absolutely love this country and its people. The poverty is heart-breaking, but the people are full of pride and warmth. Being here at the time of their celebration of independence has been serendipitous. Here is a people who are still trying to make their mark in a global economy and yet hold so much pride for their various cultural heritages. I will come back.